What is a water heater dip tube anyway? It is a long plastic tube inside your hot water heater that forces the cold water to go to the bottom of the tank. Without the dip tube, you will get lukewarm water, especially when the hot water is being used.

There are (3) Key Topics associated with this repair: (1) 'Removing a Dip Tube', 'Purchasing a Dip Tube' and 'Installing a New Water Heater Dip Tube'.

There are other reasons why you might not have enough hot water. Was your water heater made in the mid 1990's? Yes, then it could be your dip tube. Is your water heater newer than that? Check out the article 'Electric Hot Water Heater Troubleshooting' for an electric hot water heater. Is your water heater gas fired? 'Gas Hot Water Heater Troubleshooting', is the article you want to see.

What Does a Dip Tube Do?

Without the dip tube the cold water would mix with the hot and you will have lukewarm water. There goes the hot bath. There is not much to repair on dip tube. Depending on when it was made you may need to replace it.

This is not that hard of a job, unless your water heater is old and the pipes are corroded. They do not go bad that often. Unless you have a defective one that was manufactured in the 1990's. Sorry, you are too late to get in on the class action lawsuit.

Locating a Water Heater Dip Tube

The water heater dip tube runs from the top of the tank to near the bottom. It is on the inside of the water tank so that you cannot see it. It is inserted into the tank at the cold water inlet.

To see it you would have to shut down the tank and remove the cold water supply line. Once that is done, the dip tube is easy to remove.

Water Heater Dip Tubes - The Issues

Troubleshooting Water Heater Dip Tubes

A low volume of hot water can be indicative of a bad or broken water heater dip tube. It can also be caused by a lower heating element that is not working on an electric hot water heater. Check the links above if you are not sure of the cause of your problem.

The article 'Removing a Water Heater Dip Tube', outlines the procedure for taking out an old dip tube. Since you need to shut down the hot water heater, there is some preparation involved.

Before you can install the dip tube, you will need a new one. The article 'Purchasing a Water Heater Dip Tube' gave you some information about where to look.

The last step would be to install the new dip tube. 'Installing a Water Heater Dip Tube' discussed the installation and putting the water heater back together.

Summary

The toughest part of this job is getting the nipple loose that is connected to the tank. After that it get's pretty easy. Now that you have completed your water heater dip tube project you can consider your next move. It's your choice, more repairs or watching the ball game.

There are multiple anode rod installation types. The reason for the variation is the type of anode rod installed at the factory, the clearance you have to install a replacement rod and the type and conditioning of the water in your home.

Not sure if this is your problem? See the articles, 'Troubleshooting Gas Water Heaters' and 'Electric Water Heater Troubleshooting' for more information and a complete listing of all of the water heater issues.

Anode Rod Installation Types

There are two types of anodes. One is a hex head type. If you look at the top of your tank you should be able to find one or two hex nuts that are exposed or under plastic covers. This type it the most common.

The other type is a combination anode that is in the hot water outlet nipple. Usually when a hot water tank has two anodes you will find one of each.

Hex head anode rods have a nut on them the threads directly into the top of the hot water tank. The tank has a threaded opening built in during the manufacturing process. It is possible to have two or more anode rods installed in your tank.

This style is the easiest to change, in terms of steps. However, the type of anode rod and the age of the tank, may make freeing up the connection difficult.

Hot Water Outlet Anode Rods

This option is sometimes used when a second anode rod is installed in the tank. It can also occur when the original anode rod cannot be removed and this style is used as a replacement.

As the name implies the anode rod is installed at the hot water outlet for the tank. It is hollow inside to allow water to pass through it. It is slightly harder to change because the pipe between the tank and the union needs to be removed to install it.

This style comes in all of the metal types and is available in a flexible format. This style costs more, nearly double in some instances, than the equivalent rod in a hex head format.

Flexible Anode Rods

Flexible anode rods are only needed for replacement purposes. The reason they are needed is clearance. A standard anode rod for a full height tank is around 40". That means you need 40" clear above the top of the tank to replace it.

You can cut the old one to get it out if you don't have the clearance. Cutting the new one, however, is not really an option. Flexible anode rods have two or three spots on them where they can bend.

Instead of forty inches clear, you may only need as little as 11". A flexible anode rod is often the only choice when the ceiling is less than full height above the water heater.

Flexible anode rods cost more than straight ones. Magnesium is the poplar choice for flexible anode rods, since it is a softer metal. They are available in aluminum and can even be found at home supply stores in theis format.

Aluminum/Zic/Tin anode rods that are flexible are not that common. If you have an odor problem, finding a suitable flexible rod may be a challenge.

Electric Anode Rods

This is the least common and most expensive option. Electric anode rods do not rely on the type of metal to work. Instead they introduce an electrical charge into the tank that stops the corrosion.

The unit is considerably more than a standard anode rod and would only be found on high end units or when it was installed as a replacement. The other drawback would be that an electrical connection is required.

Determining the Type

An hex nut on the top of your tank with no pipe attached to it is a give away for a hex type anode rod. It would still be possible that you also have a hot water outlet rod as well.

When there is no hex nut present, then the likely result would be a hot water outlet anode rod.

Do you have your owners manual? It should have the anode information in it. Can't find it? Try the manufacturer's website or go to Manuals Online to try and find it. You will need your model number.

Summary

Next, you are going to want to actually purchase a new anode rod. See the article 'Purchasing an Anode Rod' for more information. After that, you will need to install it. See the article 'Installing an Anode Rod'.

Your home can have different types of water heater anode rods. When replacing your anode rod, the first decision will be what type of metal to purchase.

Not sure if this is your problem? See the articles 'Gas Water Heater Troubleshooting' and 'Fixing Electric Hot Water Heaters' for a complete listing of all the water heater topics.

Reason for Different Types

The anode rod keeps the tank from rusting. The metal that the anode rod is made of will corrode before the metal in your hot water tank. That is why they are sometimes called 'sacrificial' anode rods.

Rust is the main reason for a hot water tank failure. The anode rod will extend the life of the hot water tank. A normal anode rod will last abour five years. That is why there are a lot of water heaters out there with a six year warranty.

Water heaters with longer warranties will either use multiple (usually two different types) or a better grade of metal to achieve the warranty. The longer warranty is tied to how long the anode rods will take to corrode.

The other reason for different types is odor. Depending on the mineral content of the water in your home, bacterial can grow inside of the hot water tank. This bacteria can cause a foul odor. Certain metals for anode rods will reduce or eliminate the odor issue.

So, there are different types based on how they are installed and the type of metal that they are made of.

Types of Metal For Anode Rods

Aluminum Anode Rods

Most water heater come with aluminum anode rods from the factory. They are the least expensive and provide the lowest level of protection. An aluminum anode rod will last about five years.

In some cases, aluminum anode rods can cause odors, but this is more of a problem with magnesium. Aluminum rods can get a build up of corrosive materials on them. This will make them difficult to remove, since the diameter of the rod increases.

The main complaint about aluminum is having the aluminum introduced into your water supply. Aluminum has been linked to several health problems including Alzheimer disease.

Magnesium Anode Rods

It is thought that magnesium is a superior metal for anode rods. Magnesium produces a stronger current than aluminum and provides better insurance against rust.

Magnesium that is dissolved in water is thought to have health benefits in contrast to aluminum that may have health concerns. Magnesium corrodes at a faster rate than aluminum so they do not last as long.

Where water odor is a concern, magnesium should not be used, since it reacts with bacteria and can cause odor. Magnesium anode rods cost more than aluminum and are used less often.

Combination Anode Rods

Where foul odors in the water are present an anode rod made of aluminum/zinc/tin is recommended. These anode reduce the generation of bacteria, since zinc is a natural inhibitor.

This type still uses aluminum, so there is that health question. They are also the most expensive anode rods you can purchase.

Replacing Anode Rods

See the article 'Replacing an Anode Rod' for instructions on replacing yours. Additionally, you may want to review the article 'Purchasing an Anode Rod' before you buy one.

Before purchasing a water heater anode rod there are three things you need to be sure of:

(1) What is the clearance you have to install the anode rod. If you have much less than 40", you will need to get a flexible anode rod.

(2) What type of metal do you want to use. The choices are Aluminum, Magnesium and a combination of Aluminum/Zinc/Tin. See the article 'Anode Rod Metal Types' for information on the differences.

(3) What type installation will it be. Do you have a 'hex head' anode rod or is it a 'hot water outlet' anode rod. See the article 'Anode Rod Installation Types' for information on each type.

Clearance Issues

Did you have any clearance issues? Yes, then you are going to get a flexible anode for a replacement. They cost a couple of dollars more. You will have to make the aluminum vs magnesium decision. An aluminum anode will run around $25, for magnesium it will be closer to $40.

Standard Aluminum Anode Rods

A straight aluminum anode rod is the least expensive choice. They do not work as well as magnesium and may be prone to causing odors in some situations.

Aluminum anode rods are a common type used in new water heaters. There are both health and performance concerns associated with aluminum anode rods.

You can purchase an aluminum anode rod online, at plumbing and home supply stores for around $20 to $25.

Odor Issues

Are you having problems with odor. Then you will want to get an anode that is made of a combination of zinc and aluminum. Do not get magnesium. This style will run around $50 or $60. Some manufacturers have special proprietary combination anode rods. It is best to check before you get your heater torn apart.

Hot Water Heater Outlet Anode Rods

Hot water outlet anode rods will cost nearly double the price of the same metal in a straight version. This type of anode rod is made to allow the hot water to pass through it.