Stipple texture is recoginized by it's pronounced raised points that can resemble tiny mountain ranges. Actually, in the last few decades this type of texture has been toned down quite a bit. Instead of the heavy looking stalagtite typs points, a much flatter, subtle looking texture is preferred.
Due to this feature it is primarily used on ceilings. A close cousin is "Knock Down Texture", this texture is first stippled and then the points are flattened. See the article "Patching Drywall" for information on fixing the drywall prior to repairing the texture.
This article covers how to patch a texture ceiling that is already installed. The problem is, that to match the texture, you need to use the same techniques that the original installers used.
Whether the stipple texture is heavy or light, the methods for installing it are the same. The texture is applied by rolling or spraying drywall compound onto the ceiling. The pattern is created by 'stopmping' the ceiling with a round or oval texture brush. The indectations and raised portions are created by the brush.
Stipple drywall texture can range from very light, usually done with a sprayer, to heavy. You want to thin the the mud accordingly. For a heavy stipple the mud should be stiff but workable.
For a very thin texture the mud might be the consistency of a heavy paint. The pattern is also important. You may not have a brush that matches the one used.
The thicker the mud, the more pronounced and sharper looking the stipple will be. You may need to experiment with the thickness to get a stipple similar to the one you have currently.
The two common ones are round and oval. You can buy them at a home supply store. A texture brush and be found near the drywall supplies. They are around ten dollars. The have a threaded fitting in them so that any broom handle or painting extension stick will work.
For a very small patch it may be possible to use a brush that you already have, even a paint brush. However, it will take some experimenting to get the pattern to look the same.
The thicknes of the mud will determine how sharp or flat the pattern looks. Start with thicker mud and keep adding water until you have the consistency that will create the correct pattern.
Roll the drywall compound onto the area that needs to be patched. Roll the wet mud onto the existing texture by a couple of inches. The stippling is where you tap or 'stomp', as it is called in the industry, the brush into the wet mud. You may have to experiment with how vigorous the 'stomping' is, again this is to get the pattern you want. The bristles of the brush are kept perpendicular to the drywall and when you pull the brush away it leaves a stipple.
Play with it a little bit until you get your stipple drywall texture right. Blend the texture into the existing edges. Normally you would want to rotate the brush in your hand as you stomp it, this keeps the pattern as random as possible
Step back, how does it look? If you are satisfied, let it dry and paint the area. Not satisfied. Scrape it off while it is still wet and try again. No shame in that. You will probably never find the guy that did it the first time. Even if you did he probably could not exactly match his own work. Texturing drywall is very common you will be glad over time the you are able to install a stippled texture when you need to.
As you can see from the above, matching an existing texture as a trial and error process. With a little experimentation and practice you should be able to get the patch to look the same as your existing ceiling. You should paint the entire ceiling after the patch has dried. This will help the texture to blend.
Have you recently noticed a little patch of black mold growing on the ceiling of your bathroom? Rather than wondering about how you are going to remove it, your first question should be "is black mold dangerous?" Here are three points that you need to know about the presence of mold in your home.
Mold can involve larger areas and can be a big problem. If you need to remove or clean mold, you want to see the articles 'How To Remove Moldy Drywall?' and 'How To Disinfect Moldy Drywall'.
Check out this government website before you mess with mold. A Brief Guide to Mold, Moisture, and Your Home, it will give you some insight and safety tips. Another good article is Mold, on the CDC website. The EPA states that repairs of less than ten square feet can be performed by a homeowner, as long as they follow the guidelines.
DID YOU DO SOMETHING WRONG?
The first thing you need to know about mold growing in your home is that it didn't occur because of something you did or didn't do. Mold spores move through the air, and can easily enter the home through any opening. They could have easily wafted in on the breeze when you were carrying your groceries in from the car, or piggybacked in on the fur of your pet.
Once inside the home, if mold meets the right growing conditions, then the spores will begin to reproduce and grow bigger colonies. It can take as little as 48 hours for mold to begin growing if it hits just the right spot.
WHAT DOES MOLD NEED TO GROW?
So what are the right spots for mold to grow? The three main ingredients that mold needs to grow are food, moisture, and humidity. When it comes to moisture, there is a ready supply of that already in your home. From the steam that is created by your hot showers, to that insignificant leak dripping from your pipes, the first item mold needs is not hard to locate.
Bathrooms are one place where mold can grow rapidly due to the heat that is generated in there. If you are not regularly using your ventilation fan, the heat from the shower steam has nowhere to go. This builds up until the air molecules are filled with water, and this is the cause of your humidity.
As for food, the particle board that is covering your bathroom walls and ceiling is all the food mold spores need. These products are made from cellulose materials which contain sugar. Mold has a sweet tooth, so fiber boards, wallpaper, and wood particles are all the perfect diet for your mold.
WILL THE PRESENCE OF MOLD CAUSE ILLNESS?
Now that you have noticed the problem growing in your bathroom, it is time to answer the question of "is black mold dangerous?"
The short answer to that question is yes, it can be.
The problem with black mold is that it does not affect the health of every person in the same way.
Some people may not experience any direct reactions from being exposed to black mold. But those who are sensitive to allergies, have respiratory illnesses such as asthma, or who are very young could be susceptible to bigger problems.
Medical reactions that may occur after being exposed to black mold include skin irritation, breathing issues such as wheezing, runny noses, and irritated eyes. Prolonged exposure to mold by those already sensitive to it could result in a constant shortness of breath, or lung infections.
Once mold has been noticed in the home, it needs to be removed immediately. For all of the mold that you can see, there may be more lurking beneath your wall or ceiling coverings that you cannot see. If you feel the health of a home dweller is being affected by black mold, then you must remove them from the home until the mold is completely removed. Respiratory problems can quickly develop into severe medical conditions, so it is not worth the risk of prolonged exposure.
You may be concerned that the mold that you have is the dangerous 'black mold' that everyone is afraid of. There are many thousands of types of mold that you could have in your home. Only a few of them are toxic and not all of the toxic ones are black.
There has been overactive use of scare tactics with regard to mold. Some of this comes from the media, and some of it comes from companies that want to sell expensive remediation services.
How can you tell what type of mold you have? You cannot tell by the naked eye. The only way to tell is to have it tested. With that said, testing can be expensive.
There are some relatively inexpensive test kits that can tell you whether or not you have a dangerous problem. You can find 'Test Kits' for purchase at the 'My Mold Detective' website. If you want to put your mind at ease, test the mold before you attempt to clean or remove it.
So is 'black mold' dangerous? It can be, but many times it is not. However, it is dirty and smelly so getting rid of it makes sense. See the articles 'How To Remove Moldy Drywall?' and 'How To Disinfect Moldy Drywall'.
Replacing a door frame may not be as hard as it sounds.
Most door thresholds fasten directly to the substrate below the door and cannot be adjusted. An adjustable threshold has a bar in it that adjusts to the bottom of the door.
This is especially useful if the floor is out of level or the door is crooked.
Pocket door guides are small plastic retainers that are installed at the bottom of the door jamb. As the door closes the guides keep the door going straight. Without the guides you may have difficulty getting the door to latch.
Not sure if this is your problem? See the articles 'Troubleshooting Pocket Doors' and 'Adjusting Pocket Doors' for a listing of related topics.
Pocket doors are installed differently than most other doors. Instead of being attached at the side, they are hung from the top. Most pocket doors have two hangers and two sets of rollers at the top of the door.
The rollers allow the door to follow a metal track when the door opens and closes. The rollers keep the door aligned at the top.
The bottom of the door is another matter. There is nothing that keeps the bottom of the door in place, other than the pocket itself. Pocket door guides keep the door centered in the pocket.
Due to the design of pocket door latches there is a tendency to push the door away as it is being closed. This adds to the problem. For the latch to work the door needs to go in between the two stops at the strike side of the door.
For the guides to work properly, they need to be set so that they hold the door snugly in the center. However, they should not rub or created friction on the door.
Check the guides at the bottom of the door frame. Is there a gap between the door and the guide? Can you move the door back and forth between the two guides? If so, you need to adjust the guides.
If the guides are loose, you may need to tighten them or replace the screws with a slightly larger one.
Pocket door guides have a slot in them that allows for adjustment. Loosen the screw a turn or two until the guide can be moved. Move the guide until it is within the thickness of a heavy sheet of paper away from the door. Make sure that the door is in the center of the pocket. Use a tape measure to check the distance from the edge of the door jamb.
Adjust both guides so that the door is held in place without binding. Move the door back and forth to make sure there is no friction.
It could be that you do not have any guides installed on your pocket door. Or, they may be worn or damaged. This is not a problem, they are easy to install.
Obtain a new set of pocket door guides at a home supply store or order them on the internet. They should only cost a couple of dollars.
Locate them so that they lightly touch the door when it is centered in the opening. Mark the location for the screw in the center of the slot. This will give you some adjustment room when the guide is installed.
Install the guides on both sides of the door, close too the bottom of the door (not the bottom of the frame). Leave a the thickness of a thick sheet of paper between the guide and the door, so that it will open freely.
Once you have installed your guides you will want to make sure that your pocket door is properly adjusted. See the article 'Adjusting Pocket Doors' for information and instructions.
Hopefully, you have been able to solve your issue with your pocket door. Adjusting the guides is not that hard and you should have been able to do it in a few minutes.
Installing are replacing the guides is not hard either. Once you located new ones the repair should have been simple.