Pocket door hangers, unlike hinges, support the door from the top. A standard swinging door has hinges along the side that support it, usually three, sometimes two. A pocket door has two hangers attached to the top of the door. The hangers are also connected to the rollers. The rollers run in the track over the door allowing the door to slide back and forth.
The hangers are really more like a bolt. This is a special bolt that has a head on it the fits into a bracket on the door. The head of the bolt can slide in and out of the bracket, so that the door can be removed. The other end of the bolt is threaded into the roller assembly. The hanger and bracket are designed in a way that allows for adjustment.
Are you having trouble with the pocket door hangers? See the article 'Troubleshooting Pocket Doors'. You will find information on adjusting, lubricating and repairing pocket doors. Most of the time it is a simple job that only takes a few minutes.
The end of the door hanger that fits into the bracket has a section that is hex shaped. This allows for a wrench to be used as an adjustment. Easy, right, just get a wrench and away you go. The problem is that the area above the door is pretty narrow. You usually don't have room for a regular wrench.
The hardware kit that comes with the pocket door comes with a thin wrench that is used for adjustment. If you are one of those highly organized people that has a system for keeping things like this, you can probably just go get it. For the rest of us, it might be a problem to find it. If your pocket door was installed by the builder of the house, you may never have had the wrench in your possession.
To adjust the door hangers you will have to get a thin profile wrench of the proper size for the adjusting nut on the hanger. You may be able to find one at a home supply store or you can search online for one.
Adjusting the pocket door hangers is pretty simple after you have a wrench that will fit. Tightening the hangers will raise the door. The opposite is also true, loosening the hangers will lower the door. The tricky part is that an adjustment to the hangers on the top of the door also affects the sides of the door.
For a complete discussion on how to adjust a pocket door, see the article 'Pocket Door Adjustment'. This article provides pictures and detailed instructions on how to adjust a pocket door along with other pocket door repair information.
Pocket doors can come of the hangers and be difficult to move. It is fairly simple to put them back on. There is a retention clip on the bracket. First you need to open the clip with a screwdriver or flat object like a 'butter knife'. Yes I said butter knife, its amazing how many things you can fix with a butter knife. Align the pocket door hanger with the bracket on the top of the door.
Carefully lift the door and slide the hanger into the slot on the bracket. Once the door is in place you can slide the retention clip back into place. Check the door and make sure it is running on the track correctly. It is a little more trouble when the door comes off the back hanger. See the articles 'Putting a Pocket Door Back On' for detailed information.
Pocket door hangers are simple yet important for the operation of a pocket door. You use them to adjust the door and keep it working smoothly. The hangers fit into a bracket at the top of the door and thread into the rollers.
The main purpose of the hanger is for adjustment. The adjustments are fairly sensitive and may require a little patience. After a little experimenting you should get the idea of how to adjust them. Lining up the latch set and fixing gaps are all accomplished by adjusting the pocket door hangers.
Can you use drywall to make plaster wall repairs? The answer to that question is mostly a yes. Using drywall on plaster walls is acceptable, but there are considerations. The first issue is thickness. Plaster systems can vary in thickness, depending on the type of system used. You may find that the plaster is thicker than standard drywall.
You can uses shims or cardboard to pack out the framing behind the drywall patch. Use the proper thickness of shim for the depth you have. An example would be a 7/8" plaster system. You would need 3/8" shims to get the drywall to the same surface as the plaster. For instructions on installing a drywall patch, see the article 'Drywall Hole Repair'. This article has information on installing additional framing and the actual replacement drywall.
The other issue would be the surface texture of the plaster. Plasterers use all sorts of techniques to finish a surface. Or the plaster itself may have a different finish then the drywall you are installing. A smooth piece of drywall in the middle of a textured plaster wall may stick out.
You may need to do a little experimenting to get the drywall surface to look the same as the plaster. This is especially true if you have some sort of troweled texture in the plaster. See the article 'Texturing Drywall', for more information. This article will give you a few pointers on how to match a plaster texture.
Plaster wall failure occurs for several reasons. Plaster is an extremely versatile product. The fact that is labor intensive and takes a long time to install has led to its replacement in most residential applications. One drawback to plaster is the fact that it is mixed in the field.
Human error and varying conditions can change the composition, and quality, of the plaster mix. Over time the coats of plaster can start to separate from one another. Or the entire plaster assemble may separated from the substrate.
Large areas of plaster can fall off or loosen up. When this happens, you are faced with a large plaster wall repair. Installing plaster for large areas is generally not practical. It can be done, but it is usually beyond the skill level of the average homeowner. See the articles on 'Drywall Patching' and 'Mixing Drywall and Plaster' for information on using drywall for a plaster wall failure. You can also see 'Spackling a Plaster Wall' for minor repairs.
For those that want to know what it takes, we will give you a quick run down. Plaster is normally installed in three coats. The scratch coat goes on first and is a fairly thin layer of base coat. The idea behind this coat is to get a good bond to the substrate. A wire tool is used to put scratches into the coat before it dries. The scratched provide 'keys' for the other coats to fill and bond to.
So can you use drywall tape and compound to make larger plaster wall repairs? Yes you can although some caution is required. Whether it is plaster or drywall, the main purpose is for it to hold up the paint. A smooth plaster surface or a smooth drywall surface will both to the job. Drywall compound will stick to plaster and drywall tape will bridge gaps and smaller holes. The moral to this story is that drywall materials will work for plaster repairs as long as they are not too severe.
Using drywall mud and tape does require some skill and practice. See the articles 'How To Patch Drywall' and 'Taping and Mudding Drywall' for pointers and information on using drywall materials to repair walls and ceilings.
Drywall materials are easier to obtain, they are readily available at home supply stores. Plaster materials are more difficult to obtain. You have to go drywall or masonry suppliers to obtain them. You also need a lot more practice to master these skills. Where possible, the course of wisdom is to try and use drywall products for plaster wall repairs.
Spackling plaster walls is done the same way as you would for drywall. The easiest way to patch small holes and and cracks is to use spackling or drywall compound. Plaster and drywall are both gypsum based, so the two materials will adhere to one another.
Fill the holes and lightly sand them as needed until you have a smooth surface. You may need to coat them two or three times, depending on the size of the hole.
For additional information, you can see the article 'How To Spackle Drywall'. This article has information on the material to use and how to install it.
The main difference between plaster and drywall is that, drywall has a paper facing on it. Plaster walls are generally three different types of plaster, that are build up to achieve the surface. When your holes or damage get deeper into the plaster you may have to do some extra work. See the article 'Fixing Holes in Plaster Walls', for more information.