Bifold door sizes are limited, therefore, you will need to verify if the size you need is available. Bifold doors come in fewer sizes than other types of doors. In addition, you generally need a finished opening for a bifold. So taking out a conventional door and replacing it with a bifold will not always work. This article discusses the cost, difficulty, and possible problems with replacing or installing a bifold door.
Not sure if you need a new bifold door? See the articles 'Repairing Bifold Doors' and 'Adjusting Bifold Door Hardware'. Many times a malfunctioning bifold door can be asjusted to solve closing problems. Also see, 'Troubleshooting Closet Doors' for more information.
As a rule you only use bifold doors on closets. There are a couple of reasons for this. First, bifold doors are not made for heavy use, so they work well on closets. Second, they are designed to open from one side only. Bifold doors do not require wood jambs like other doors. Often the openings are just covered with drywall.
Before you select a bifold door size, you want to see if you are up for this project. Check out the article 'Installing Bifold Doors' for information. Installing a bifold door is a project that only takes a couple of hours, provided you have an opening that will work with available bifold door sizes.
Replacing a bifold door yourself can save you some money. It will probably run between $100 and $150 to have someone install a door. Assuming you have the correct opening, it could only be an hour of work. Not bad.
Determining your bifold door size is not hard at all, a tape measure and a few minutes is all it takes.
Checking out an opening for a bifold door is pretty easy. You may just need to repair it, instead of replacing it. See the article 'Repairing Interior Bifold Doors' for more information.
Remember to hold the tape measure straight. Write the dimensions down, don't trust your memory. Height is important too, check it at the same time. The tolerance is around a quarter of an inch. Undersize is a problem, slightly oversize will be fine.
Bifold door options include different styles and finishes. Some are pre-finished, others are pre-primed and ready for paint. You can also choose from flush or embossed patterns. Louvers are also an option with bifold doors. This may require a trip to the supply store to see what's available.
You are not locked into only considering bifold door options, just because it is a closet. Sliding doors are still available and may provide some relief on the opening size. Sliding doors do have the drawback of only allowing access to half the closet at a time.
The various bifold door options should be compared with your decor and available openings. See the article 'How Bifold Doors Are Sized' and 'Common Bifold Sizes' for information on the opening requirements. Pre-primed doors can be painted to match existing trim. However, matching existing stained or natural woodwork can be a problem. First you may have difficulty finding the same wood and then the staining and finishing may not match.
Swing door can also be used for closets. These do need a wood jamb to attach the hinges to. For smaller openings (less that 36"), you have more size choices with swinging doors. Swinging doors are available in two inch increments.
Replacing a bifold door is not a hard project, provided that the opening is close to what it needs to be for a standard bifold door size. Bifold doors are supported by a track on top and a pivot pin on the bottom. The sides and head do not need to have a wood jamb.
Many times you will find that closet openings are finished with drywall. Screws will need to be an appropriate length when going through drywall.
When replacing a bifold door, can the door panels be cut? The answer to that question is maybe. It depends on how much you need to cut it. Additionally, cutting doors requires some carpenter skills and the ability to work with power tools. Provided you have the skills and don't need to trim too much, it is possible. The finish on the door will also be a factor if you attempt to cut it.
For a discussion on replacing a bifold door you need to see the article 'Installing a Bifold Door'. This article has detailed information on how to install a bifold. In addition it will provide information on adjusting and trimming doors.
Where do you go from here? Now that you have your bifold door size issue behind you. Take a look at your list and see if anything sounds good. Check the main menu for other topics that you are in need of.
There are a couple of places a bathtub drain can leak. One is around the drain. The other place is where the vertical overflow tube and the horizontal drain come together.
Not your problem? See 'Plumbing Repair' or 'Plumbing Drains' for a complete listing of related plumbing topics.
There are some compression fittings there, similar to the ones under your kitchen sink. You should be able to get to the compression fittings through and access door or from the basement.
Just like the sink drain fittings, these have washers in them. You can try to tighten them and it may stop the leak. Replace the washers when it will not stop leaking. They should be 1 1/2", she same as a kitchen drain. Use the adjustable pliers to loosen the nuts to replace the washers. You will have to pull the fittings apart to get the new washers on.
Tighten the nuts back up, snug but not too tight. Try running some water and see if you have solved your leak. Did you? Good you are done with this bathtub drain repair.
A leak around the drain is another matter. The strainer is held in place by a large nut on the bottom of the tub. The flange of the strainer is sealed with plumbers putty. There is also a rubber gasket between the big nut and the tub. Whenever you disturb this connection you have to put new plumbers putty around the flange.
They make a wrench that can loosen the strainer but the average person does not have one. The handles of metal pliers will work to loosen it if you use a screwdriver for torque. Loosen the strainer and clean the old putty away. Check the rubber gasket, if it is worn or broken, you should replace it. Put a new bed of plumbers putty around the drain and thread the parts back together.
Use the pliers and screwdriver to tighten the nut. The putty will ooze out, this is normal. Get the strainer good and tight. Then clean up the excess putty. Try running some water down and see if you have completed this bathtub drain repair.
Many bathtubs have a metal lever at the bathtub overflow that controls the drain. There is a metal plunger that is connected to the handle by linkage.
Not your problem? See 'Plumbing Repair' or 'Plumbing Drains' for a complete listing of related plumbing topics.
Sometimes the pins that hold the linkage together can corrode and break. This will cause the plunger to stay in the closed position. Try the handle and see if it feels like it is controlling something. When it moves freely without any resistance, it is likely broken.
Remove the screws that hold the overflow cover in place. When you pull the cover away the linkage should be attached to it. If it is, check the plunger and make sure it is moving up and down the vertical tube freely.
Has the linkage separated from the lever. Yes, then you will have to try and fish the linkage out with a pair of pliers or a coat hanger. The linkage is held together with cotter pins. You will have to obtain some replacements for the one that has broken.
Assemble the linkage making sure it is securely attached to the handle. Put it back into the vertical tube and put the screws back into the cover plate. Try the handle and see if the stopper moves up and down freely.
With the stopper up the drain should work. When it is down the tub should fill. Simple but effective technology. Got it? Does the drain work? Outstanding you have solved this clogged bathtub drain problem.
Many bathtubs have a metal lever at the bathtub overflow that controls the drain. There is a metal plunger that is connected to the handle by linkage. Sometimes the pins that hold the linkage together can corrode and break. This will cause the plunger to stay in the closed position. Try the handle and see if it feels like it is controlling something. When it moves freely without any resistance, it is likely broken.
Remove the screws that hold the overflow cover in place. When you pull the cover away the linkage should be attached to it. If it is, check the plunger and make sure it is moving up and down the vertical tube freely. Has the linkage separated from the lever. Yes, then you will have to try and fish the linkage out with a pair of pliers or a coat hanger. The linkage is held together with cotter pins. You will have to obtain some replacements for the one that has broken.
Assemble the linkage and put making sure it is securely attached to the handle. Put it back into the vertical tube and put the screws back into the cover plate. Try the handle and see if the stopper moves up and down freely.
With the stopper up the drain should work. When it is down the tub should fill. Simple but effective technology. Got it? Does the drain work? Outstanding you have solved this clogged bathtub drain problem.
Many bathtubs have a metal lever at the bathtub overflow that controls the drain. There is a metal plunger that is connected to the handle by linkage. Sometimes the pins that hold the linkage together can corrode and break. This will cause the plunger to stay in the closed position. Try the handle and see if it feels like it is controlling something. When it moves freely without any resistance, it is likely broken.
Remove the screws that hold the overflow cover in place. When you pull the cover away the linkage should be attached to it. If it is, check the plunger and make sure it is moving up and down the vertical tube freely. Has the linkage separated from the lever. Yes, then you will have to try and fish the linkage out with a pair of pliers or a coat hanger. The linkage is held together with cotter pins. You will have to obtain some replacements for the one that has broken.
Assemble the linkage and put making sure it is securely attached to the handle. Put it back into the vertical tube and put the screws back into the cover plate. Try the handle and see if the stopper moves up and down freely.
With the stopper up the drain should work. When it is down the tub should fill. Simple but effective technology. Got it? Does the drain work? Outstanding you have solved this clogged bathtub drain problem.
A bathtub drain repair is usually required when you have either a clog or a stopper that is malfunctioning.
There are (3) Key Topics associated with 'Bathtub Drain Repair', take a quick jump here or check out the overview below:
Checking the Bathtub Stopper Assembly - Broken linkage can cause the stopper to stay in the closed position, thus stopping the bathtub from draining.
Leaking Bathtub Drains - Leaks are never a good thing. Your bathtub has a couple of spots it can leak at.
Clogged Bathtub Drains - Find out where a clog is likely to occur and how to fix it.
It is pretty easy to figure out when you have a clog. The water won't go down, simple right? The stopper linkage could be broken and this will also cause the drain not to work. The other problem would be a leak. There are some places that a bathtub drain might leak.
There is always one villain that stands out from the rest. A sinister villain that causes much heartache. With a bathtub that villain is hair. Hair and soap put together and you have a recipe for a clogged drain.
Don't despair, many times the problem is easy to fix. Check out the information below and try to assess whether you are up for the task. The evaluation section will help you see what you can save and how hard it will be to do.
What Can You Save? - For a simple problem it could be $50. When the stopper assembly needs to be fixed, it could run more. Around $125. Most of the time it is simple and only takes a few minutes.
How Hard Could It Be? - Bathtub drain repairs can vary from easy to a little work and an hour or so of time. These repairs will have a Difficulty Level of: A Bit of Work. These repairs require a Skill Level of: Handyman. For and explanation of the terms in this section, see 'How to Use This Site'.
Check the Simple Things! - Hair in the strainer is the simplest one. Do you have people in the house with long hair? Take the strainer out with a screwdriver and check for hair.
What Can Go Wrong? - Do you want to be without a bathtub? Take it apart without getting is put back together and leave your home crippled. Using a snake can be messy and clogs involve water. Take precautions to deal with anything that can be damaged by water.
You have three things that could be wrong. One the stopper won't close or open. See Step One for instructions. The second item would be a leak. See Step Two for what to do when you have drips.
One item that causes trouble in a bathtub drain is the stopper assembly. There are some moving parts that can break. 'Checking the Bathtub Stopper Assembly' covered the issue and how to fix them.
Another common problem is a leaking bathtub drain. There are seal that can leak. 'Leaking Bathtub Drains' talked about what you can do to stop the leaks.
'Fixing Clogged Bathtub Drains' provided information on what to do if your bathtub drain is not working.
Bathtub drains are fairly simple to work on. The worst part is getting to the parts. Even with an access door they are pretty tight. Was it a simple clog or a broken cotter pin? That should not have been too difficult.
Or did you have an entrenched clog? No matter what you had to face in dealing with your bathtub drain repair, you are better for it. With your new strength of character you can move forward and accomplish great things.
Troubleshooting electrical circuits can be helpful when you are getting overloads on one circuit. It may be that you have to move a high wattage item like a 'space heater' or 'kitchen appliance to another circuit. This can eliminate the breakers tripping when multiple items are turned on at the same time.
For some related topics, see the articles 'Troubleshooting Electrical Wiring', 'Fixing Electrical Outlets', 'Installing Light Switches', 'Reparing Three Way Switches' and 'Basic House Wiring'. Follow these links for more information.
Tracing the wiring for a circuit can be challenging for an amateur. The wires run through walls and ceilings and don't always follow a logical path. Most of the time tracing the wiring is not necessary. Knowing which circuit supplies an outlet or light fixture is all that is needed most of the time.
Do you have a desire to know exactly what each breaker does in your basic house wiring. It may be a little confusing when you try to determine which outlets and lights are on which circuits. The labeling in the panel will give you an idea, but usually lacks specific information. A simple way to check is to shut a breaker off. Go around with voltage tester and see what is off.
Most of the time you can find the right breaker by trial and error. Does that bother you? You can take the time and check all your electrical devices by shutting off the circuits one at a time. Write down which items belong to which circuits.
Too Much Load
Each circuit is designed for a certain load, or amount of electricity it will use. It is possible to exceed that load by using extra plug in devices. You can buy a plug strip for less than ten dollars. Now a normal duplex has six places to plug things in. Want to 'double down', yes you could even plug another plug strip into it. You get the picture, when you start exceeding the limits of the circuit breaker it will trip.
I use an electric heater in my office downstairs. My wife irons in the next room. Guess what? Too much load, the breaker trips as soon as the heater tries to start when the iron is on. Two high wattage items, recipe for an overload. Installing a new circuit breaker is not needed when you are overloading the circuit.
Do you experience the same thing? Does the breaker trip when a certain device is used? You probably have too much load on that circuit. Try moving things around and see if it solves the problem. Overloads are not the fault of the circuit breaker. Remove the overload and the problem is solved. No need to install a new circuit breaker.
Shorts would be another culprit. Dead shorts are not that common, but they do happen. Old or frayed wiring can get crossed at the wrong spot. When you have a short the breaker will not stay on. As soon as you turn it on it will trip. No funny combination of devices, just 'Click' as soon as you turn it on. Again, for this problem, installing a new circuit breaker is not the answer.
Check all the wiring for the things you have plugged in. Do you see any obvious problems? Fix or remove any device with bad wires. Don't see anything obvious? Use the process of elimination. Remove one item and see if the breaker holds. No? Try another item. When you find the culprit you need to fix it or get rid of it.
WARNING!! Make Sure the Power is OFF Before Working With Electricity!!! WARNING!!!
Why would you ever need to trace a circuit? It could be that you are just meticulous and you want to know to which circuit every electrical item in your house belongs. A more likely reason is that you are not getting power to one or more of the outlets or lights in your home. Imagine that a circuit is like a series of nodes that emanate from your electrical panel. At each node there are connections. Depending on how the joints in the box are made up, one loose wire in a box can cause the boxes that follow to lose power. So installing a new circuit breaker is not the solution when you have a loose wire.
When you do not have power to an electrical box, the logical thing to do would be to check the box the precedes it and see if you have a loose connection. You probably don't have access to Superman with his X-Ray Vision. Therefore, you cannot see exactly how the wires are running through the walls and ceilings. One thing you can be sure of is that the electrician that wired your house was the 'low bidder'. He would always take the shortest path possible.
So how do you trace a circuit? First turn off the breaker that feeds the problem spot. Now take a non contact voltage tester and identify which boxes are on that circuit. Imagine the path from the panel to the farthest point on that circuit. It's not a perfect science, but the box the precedes the one that you are having trouble with is likely the one next in line, going toward the panel.
See if you have power at the box and check the connections that feed the next box. Pretty simple really, I know you would have figured it out on your own sooner or later, but why waste the time. Keep working backwards toward the panel until you find out where the break down is. What do you look for? Good question.
Joints are made up in more or less two ways inside the boxes. One way to continue a circuit that has outlets is to plug the wires into the back of the outlet. One pair of wires is coming from an outlet closer to the panel and the other pair is feeding the next outlet. You can usually tell when you are at the end of the circuit, because you only have one set of wires in the box.
The other option is to join the wires together with wire nuts and add a 'pigtail' to connect to the outlet or light. In my opinion this is a better way to do it. Unfortunately, it takes a little more time, that whole 'low bidder' thing. Either way, you have a joint in each box that could potentially be the reason you are not getting power to the boxes that follow it.
Before you touch anything, use a non contact voltage tester to determine where the power has stopped flowing at. Got it, power to one side of a connection and no power to the other side. Bingo. Shut off the breaker and tighten that connection. Turn the breaker back on and see if you have solved the problem.
I guess I should have explained that you are going to need to open up the boxes by pulling out the outlets or loosening the lights to do this. We could be into an area where you are thinking about hiring someone. Your choice, if you decide to proceed, be careful, shut the power off whenever you are working on anything. Turn it on and use the tester to follow things when the boxes are opened up.
Is it working? Yes, Great! No, then you have to keep checking the joints. Here's another visualization, if you damn up a creek no one gets water down stream. The bad connection is like a dam for the electricity. Find the dam and your problem is solved. Found it! Wonderful, installing a new circuit breaker is not needed. You have succeeded in making this repair.
For some related topics, see the articles 'Troubleshooting Electrical Wiring', 'Fixing Electrical Outlets', 'Installing Light Switches', 'Reparing Three Way Switches' and 'Basic House Wiring'. Follow these links for more information.